Sobriquet Birmans

NSW CFA REGISTERED CATTERY

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Sobriquet Birmans Kitten Care Information

Caring For Your New Kitten

Whether curled up asleep, tearing around the house or climbing the curtains, kittens are undeniably cute. But don't forget, they are totally dependent on you to provide for their health and well-being to grow into healthy adult cats.

A proper diet, vaccination and worming programs, desexing and microchipping are all issues you need to know about. Don't worry most of this is already taken care of. Your best ally will be your local veterinarian who will be happy to give you advice on all aspects of your kitten's health.

If you have any concerns or would like to chat to other Ailurophiles (cat lovers) try www.cat-world.com.au

Grooming:

Birmans love to be touched. Unlike Persians, their coats do not usually matt. They lose their kitten coat when around a year old and then what grows in is a beautiful ruff around the neck (much like an Elizabethan collar), a darker mask and point color and a beautiful ivory body. You usually only need to groom once a week but since Birmans shed seasonally, perhaps then more frequently to get out loose hair. A metal comb is useful through the back of the back legs, under the front legs and the chest. A brush with rubber tipped spikes is good for the rest of the coat. Your kitten has been washed and had their claws trimmed.

Vaccination : Your kitten will only need his annual or if kept completely indoors Bi-annual boosters. Please ask your vet for F3 only as reactions to other vaccines have been more common in Birman kittens. The standard vaccination is called an F3 as it protects against Feline Panleucopenia, and 2 different cat flu viruses – Feline Herpesvirus and Feline Calicivirus. There are also vaccines available against Feline Leukaemia Virus.

Worming : Your kitten has been wormed every 2 weeks up to the age of 12 weeks (and on the day before pick up day), continue once monthly to 6 months of age. From then on, it is recommended to give an allwormer every 3 months. If your cat is isolated from other cats, and lives indoors, you can worm less frequently. Worming medication is available as paste, liquid or tablets. The liquid is the easiest to use with young kittens. I never use the paste, it is messy and I am not sure of the dose the cat actually received. In older cats I use a device designed to make it easier to give tablets to cats. It cost me $8 from my vet and is the best idea for giving pills.

There is a “topspot” preparation called Revolution available for cats and kittens. It is active against fleas, heartworm, ear mites, and the intestinal worms (except for tapeworm). Since cats become infected with tapeworm by ingesting fleas containing tapeworm eggs, a flea-free cat is at low risk of having tapeworm. I have not found a flea on my premises for years, your kitten should not have fleas and has never been exposed to this threat. It is suggested that when starting kittens on Revolution, it is often recommended to give a worming tablet against tapeworm in case your kitten is already carrying the parasite, I don’t believe this would be necessary for this kitten.

Heartworm disease is not as prevalent in cats as it is in dogs, as the cat’s immune system is able to eliminate most infections. However, not all infections are eliminated after the mosquito carrying the immature heartworm bites the cat, and these immature stages can develop to become large worms in the heart and vessels in the lungs. Signs of heartworm disease in cats are variable, and include sudden death. Heartworm disease can be prevented by giving monthly medication, either oral or as a topspot preparation. Ask your veterinarian about the prevalence of heartworm disease in your area.

Diet   Your kitten has been fed wet foods twice a day and had dry food available at all times.

Wet food

The kittens were started on soaked dry, as they have developed, more foods have been added to their diet.

Currently the kittens get a variety of wet foods. These include Kangaroo mince, Whiskas Kitten pouches and Fancy feast or Dine canned. I do not feed a lot of cat quality fish as most comes from large deep sea fish which can have very high levels of mercury, it is recommended that children and pregnant women only eat fish once every two weeks so I keep it about the same for my family and the cats. Small fish have less mercury and so human consumption sardine’s in Brine (Homebrand) cans are an occasional option, they see as a treat. The kittens have also had roast chicken which is particularly useful if they are off their food or stressed. Raw Chicken necks or wing tips, or Greenies are useful for keeping their teeth clean and it is a good idea to offer one twice a week. These kittens haven’t taken a great deal of interest in the raw chicken so don’t buy too many all at once.

They have also had access to pet milk which they enjoy and ensures they get their required calcium. Occasionally I have offered cream but they like this less and less as they have gotten older. My older cats like the dried liver treats for dogs. They also enjoy grated cheese.

Dry food.

The kittens and mother have always had a supply of high quality dry food available. I use premium quality dry Science diet, Eagle Pack, Royal Canin, Advance, Proplan and Iams. Science Diet is the only readily available in my area and so this forms the major component of the kittens and parents diet. These foods have less fillers and are balanced for kittens if you buy the kitten variety. If your kitten is a bit upset in the tummy Iams Hairball formula is particularly good for firming up their motions again. Make sure plenty of fresh water is available at all times. I recommend you use Kitten specific dry foods until 12 months of age.

In General
Kittens have specific requirements for different nutrients, and it is important to feed a high quality, balanced kitten food in order to meet these needs.

Litter

Your kitten is used to a pellet cat litter like Breeders Choice (I actually use a Pony Pellet as it is inexpensive and if they eat the litter it is not harmful), if you intend to change the litter I suggest you do it gradually. Please do not use clumping litters with kittens as it can clump in their bowels with disastrous consequences. Crystals are also best left until they are older.


It is helpful to train your kitten to eat raw chicken wings and necks from a young age. This is to keep their teeth and gums healthy throughout life. Give them the wing tips first, although most kittens are happy to tackle the whole wing. Periodontal disease is an important disease of middle-aged to older cats, and training your kitten to chew chicken bones from the start will help your cat avoid developing this potentially life-shortening disease. It is recommended to give a chicken wing at least twice a week, although daily is even better.

Your kitten is desexed and microchipped. If there is any abnormal swelling or other problems let your vet know. They have come through the operation well and is eating and playing normally.

Cat to Cat Introductions

If the time has come for an addition to the feline family, introducing a new kitten to a single cat can be difficult.  Cats are extremely territorial and often won’t easily allow a newcomer on their turf.  Cats are also possessive and sharing their special person with another kitty isn’t easy.  Most cats will feel that a new kitten threatens their security and domestic tranquility won’t be immediate.  A long adjustment period is to be expected.

Bringing a new kitten home, however, can be a success if the cat owner proceeds with slow caution and consideration for the first cat.

When selecting a new kitten to bring home to the family, try to choose one of the opposite genders from the current cat.  Cats of different sexes tend to get along better than two cats of the same gender.  The size of the kitten is also important.  A small kitten may be accepted in time much easier than a larger, older kitten or young cat.  To prepare the cat for the new arrival, bring home a blanket or towel that has been used as bedding for the new kitten.  Or, rub the new kitten with a towel and then place the towel in the cat’s bed to let the cat become accustomed to the new smell.

Never bring home a new kitten during a hectic, stressful period such as the holidays.  Opt for a quieter time.  A long weekend is ideal to help both cats adjust to the changed situation.  If at all possible, have the kitten spayed or neutered prior to bringing it into the home.

Upon arrival, don’t put both cats together or attempt to force a meeting.  Have a separate area prepared for the kitten with an individual litter box, water dish, and feeding dish.  Try to have an area where the kitten can be away from the older cat at first.

Let the cat smell the box that the new kitten arrived in.  Just place it on the floor and let the cat explore it on his own.  Explain to the cat that a new playmate and companion has arrived.

Let the kitten explore its’ own quarters.  Give extra attention to the older cat.  Have extra play periods together with the cat and give plenty of tender, loving care.  This helps the established cat not to feel threatened by the presence of the kitten.

After a few days, bring the kitten into the same area with the cat.  Be prepared to separate the cats if the older cat becomes too threatening but sit back and allow the cats to meet.  The kitten will likely want to play with the cat but the cat may not be interested.  Expect the cat to hiss at the new arrival.  Be alert and if the cat threatens to scratch or claw the kitten, separate the pair.

Put the cats together for a short period each day until they become more familiar.  An older cat may try to “mother” a kitten or the two may become friends.  Other cats may co-exist in an armed truce or survive by ignoring the others’ existence.  As long as there is no open hostility, cats can thrive in the same environment even if they are not happy companions.

Expect a week or two to pass before the cats begin to exist in any thing resembling harmony.  Continue to give the first cat extra attention.  Giving a favourite treat to the cat each time he or she interacts with the kitten can help make the experience more pleasant.  Bringing a new toy to the established cat can also help reassure that cat that they are still loved. 

Many cat owners enjoy multiple felines but each new addition should be introduced on an individual basis.  With planning, caution, and care, a new kitten can be introduced to a cat and the pair can live together in peace. 

What do I need to buy?

Before you bring your kitten home make sure you have all the necessary items it will need.

Before the arrival:

Make sure you have kitten proofed your home.

Not only is it important to kitten proof your home but it is also strongly urged that you check out the list of plants which are toxic & non toxic to cats, if you have plants which are toxic to cats ensure they are out of reach. There are safe alternatives for your plant to nibble on should the kitten want some greenery.

Before the kitten arrives home, make sure you have set up a comfortable room for your kitten to be confined in for the first few days.

Settling your kitten in: 

Your kitten may be unsettled for a few days & miss her mum & littermates. So it is up to you to help ease the kitten's transition into your new home.

Once your new kitten arrives home, confine your kitten to one room with a litter tray, food, water & a comfortable bed & give him/her some time to become familiar with their surroundings. Cats are fastidiously clean animals & it is necessary to make sure the food & water bowls need to be kept as far away from the litter tray as possible. After a few days & when the kitten is well settled, you can gradually increase the area your kitten can explore.

Some ways to make the kitten settle in quicker include;

Children:

As with introducing pets, introducing your new kitten to children needs to be done slowly & carefully. Let the kitten settle in before you introduce it to children. If your children are young, never leave them unattended with the kitten. Ensure you teach your children how to properly handle a kitten & provide the kitten with a safe place it can retreat to should it need to get away.  Explain to your children that kittens & cats should never be disturbed if they are sleeping or eating.

Veterinarian:

It is always a good idea to take your kitten your own veterinarian in the first week or two at home with you for a check up. This will be a great opportunity to have your cat's health checked & get final vaccinations.  

Kitten Proofing your home

Before you bring your new cat home it is important to spend some time cat proofing to ensure the house is safe for your new addition. 

One useful way to visualise potential hazards is to look at your house from your cat's level. Bear in mind that kittens are adept climbers & jumpers, and are quite capable of accessing areas several feet from the ground.

Living Room/Bedrooms: 

Recliner chairs can be dangerous if kittens climb in under the chair they can get their heads or other limbs caught in the spring mechanism and this can be fatal or cause significant injury.

Ensure all power & telephone cords are out of reach to your cat. Power cords can be quite attractive to chew on so it is important to keep them out of the way. If you are still having difficulty keeping your cat away from the power cords you can try painting them with a deterrent such as bitter apple. This will taste revolting to your kitten but isn't poisonous. 

There are many species of plants which are toxic to cats so keep houseplants out of reach. 

Keep all ribbons, ties, elastic bands out of reach. If you enjoy sewing make sure your needles are stored away properly. Candles & oil burners can easily be knocked over by a kitten & be a potential fire hazard & severely scald/burn your cat. Keep well out of your kitten's reach.

Kitchen/Laundry:

Keep all cleaning chemicals & laundry detergents in a secured cupboard. Be careful with your kitchen waste. It is possible for your cat to become very sick as a result of eating scavenged food. Ensure the washing machine & tumble dryer doors are closed at all times. 

Don't leave food lying around. There are some foods (chocolate & onion to name a few) which are toxic to cats. Also be mindful of food wrappers such as cling film & aluminium foil which could be swallowed. Don't allow your kitten to play with toothpicks. Keep safely in a drawer. Be careful with unattended hotplates. When not in use cover them with a hotplate guard. 

Bathrooms: 

Keep all bathroom cleaners in a cupboard, preferably a locked one. Ensure the toilet seat is down at all times. Many kittens have drowned after jumping into the toilet. Keep medicines in a medicine cabinet & out of reach of your kitten. 

Garage: 

There are lots of hazardous chemicals stored in garages. Keep these in a safe, out of reach place. Properly secure heavy gardening equipment & tools you may have stored in your garage. Clean the floor of any hazards such as anti-freeze & oil which may have leaked from your cat. 

Garden: 

Indoors (with access to an outdoor enclosure) is always preferable, however many pet owners still do permit their cat to have access to the garden. Once again, there are many plants which are toxic to cats. Be careful that your cat doesn't have access to these plants. 

Snail pellets/slug bait can be fatal to cats, so don't use this in areas your cat can access. Be mindful of weed killers & avoid using where your cat wanders/sleeps.

General/Miscellaneous: 

Blinds with cords can be a choking hazard. Tie them up high enough so they aren't able to be reached by your cats. 

Aromatherapy and essential oils are not for cats, they can be very toxic, see a homeopath who speciallised in animals for further information.

Keep windows closed, if this is not possible install a mesh screen to prevent your cat escaping or falling from a height. 

Keep cupboard & drawers closed at all times. Cats, but especially kittens are inquisitive creatures & may jump in & either be trapped or injured when somebody closes the drawer/door. 

Block off any small areas/nooks & crannies your cat may be able to crawl into. 

Carefully check any toys your cat has access to. These include both cat toys & human toys which may be lying around. Ensure they are safe with no loose parts or strings your cat could chew off & choke on.

For further details on household toxins & poisonous plants read here... 

How To Trim Your Cat's Claws

Learning to trim your cat's claws will help prevent  your furniture from being damaged & save you money by avoiding having to take your cat to a vet or pet groomer when it needs it's claws trimmed.  

It is recommended you get a cat used to having it's feet handled from an early age. This can be done by gently massaging your cat's feet often while you pet them. 

The best time to trim your cat's claws is when he is relaxed. Some of my cats are less than thrilled at having their claws trimmed, in such a case I recommend you only trim a couple of claws per session, or do as I sometimes do & gently trim then when the cat is napping. If you have a particularly reluctant cat, there is a product called Felifriend you could try. This is a synthetic pheromone you spray on your hands, it may assist in  calming your cat down.

Hold the cat's paw in your hand with your fingers on the underside & your thumb on the top. 

Cat Claw Gently apply a forward pressure to one toe. This causes the claw to come out of the sheath, which makes it more visible. 

Cat Claw 1

Notice how in the middle of the claw is pink, this is the quick & it contains blood & nerves. This must NOT be cut as it will cause pain & bleeding. If you do accidentally cut this, apply a styptic pencil to the claw to stop the bleeding. If you don't have a styptic pencil ordinary household flour will do.  The claw should stop bleeding in about 5 minutes. 

Cat Claw - Showing Quick There are several kinds of nail clippers you can use. I use regular nail clippers for humans, but you can also purchase clippers specifically for cat's claws, these should be available from your vet or pet supply shop. Nail clippers should be very sharp as blunt ones will crush the nail, not cut it. 

Clipping cat's claw

Aim to trim between the tip of the claw & the quick. 

Cat's claw trimmed

Some people trim their cat's back claws, I don't, this is because my cat's tend to wear their back claws down naturally.   I trim their front claws approximately every 3-4 weeks and all claws before showing. 

Indoor vs Outdoor Cats

From first time kitten owners to seasoned cat companions, cat owners are divided whether or not cats should be allowed outdoors.  Traditional beliefs that cats need freedom to roam are fading in the light of statistics that indicate the indoor cats have a longer life span and better health.  Deciding whether or not a cat should be an indoors or outdoors animal is up to individual owners but the pros and cons provide substantial evidence toward indoor cats.

Statistics indicate that the life span of an indoor cat is much longer than an outdoor cat.  On average, an indoor cat lives twelve years but some cats can live for as many as twenty years.  In comparison, an outdoor cat’s life expectancy is less than five years.

The pros of keeping a cat indoors outnumber the cons of an indoor cat.  Most are directly related to the health and safety of the cat.

The first valid reason to make a cat an indoor pet is traffic.  Busy highways, roads, suburban streets and country lanes all present a life-threatening danger for cats.  One accident can be fatal or cause serious injuries.

Indoor cats are not exposed to the host of poisons that many outdoors cats encounter.  Pesticides, home garden products, car and motor products, discarded trash, spoiled foods, poisonous plants and intentional poisonings are among the poisoning dangers for cats that roam.

Danger of contracting an infectious disease rises for the outdoor cat.  Many feline diseases including Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and Feline Leukemia (FeLV) are transmitted from an infected cat to another.  Cats who roam at will encounter other cats and can contract either of these fatal diseases. Free roaming cats often encounter problems with other cats in the area & abscesses as a result of a cat fight are ailment veterinarians see on a regular basis. These are painful to the cat & can cost up to several hundred dollars to fix. A host of other infectious diseases thrive in the outdoor environment and among cats that may not have been vaccinated. 

Parasites are another health issue for outdoor cats.  Fleas are prevalent through the world and can be carriers for disease.  Some diseases can be transmitted to cat owners.  In Australia, Paralysis Ticks can infect cats, if not treated ticks can cause death in cats.  Ringworm (which is in fact a fungus, not a worm) is another disease that can adversely affect a cat’s health as well as pass to human members of the same household. While not deadly, ringworm can be quite hard to eradicate in the cat & prevention is better than cure.

Outdoor cats face other dangers.  Dogs and wild animals such as possums & snakes often prey on cats that wander into the wrong territory.  Australia has the deadliest snakes in the world, and can quite easily kill a cat. Cruel and sadistic individuals sometimes kill defenseless cats for sport or pleasure. 

Outdoors cats are more prone to becoming lost.  Less than 5% of cats taken to animal shelters are reclaimed by owners.  All outdoor cats should wear either safety collars with identifying information. However  collars often become lost.  Microchipping is the only permanent way to identify a cat. Theft of animals to be used as lab animals, for the illegal fur trade or in satanic rites is another threat for outdoor cats.

Neighbours who object to a roaming cat who may defecate or urinate in a flower bed or vegetable garden are another problem solved with indoor cats.  Neighborhood spats often arise from issues involving cats – if a cat lives indoors, then the potential for neighbor trouble is diminished.

Traditional views that cats require the freedom to roam outdoors have few pros.  The belief that indoor cats tend to be lazy and overweight is not true and can be combated with scheduled play times.  Outdoor cat enthusiasts claim cats love the outdoors, which is often true, but the dangers outweigh the benefits.  The same cat owners who promote the outdoors often insist that cats deserve their freedom. 

Such views, however, are outdated and outranked by most animal professionals.  The majority of veterinarians believe cats should be indoor pets.  So do members of most Humane Societies and animal protection societies.  Dangers to an outdoor cat far outweigh any benefits and responsible cat owners are urged to do what is best for the cat.

Cat owners uncertain about keeping a pet indoors can give their cat the best of both worlds by offering outdoor experiences in controlled situations.  Contrary to what most cat owners may think, it is possible to train a cat to a leash and harness.  It is easier to train a kitten or young cat but all cats can be leash trained.  This allows cats to be walked in the same manner as many dogs and offers outdoor exercise beneficial for both cat and owner.

Australia is one of the leading countries in the world for skin cancer. Cats are also susceptible to skin cancer. If you allow your cats to free roam, or have them in the safety of an enclosure it is important to be aware of this & offer the cat protection from the sun. Many people who build enclosures have a shaded area where the cats can enjoy the outdoors without the constant exposure of the sun.

Perhaps the best solution of all is a cat enclosure where cats can enjoy the outdoors in a safe environment.  Many companies manufacture cat enclosures but cat owners can also create their own.  A cat enclosure is simply an enclosed area that offers protection and keeps the cat from wandering away.  An ideal cat enclosure will contain enough space to move, climbing options, and a resting area.  A shady area is best so that the cat can enjoy fresh area even on the warmest days.  Every cat enclosure should be covered with material that can’t be breached by the cat.  Nylon mesh and chicken wire are two of the most inexpensive, effective options. Concerns about formerly outdoor cats adapting to indoor life are valid but a cat enclosure often solves this potential problem.

Cat owners should also consider that indoor cats are healthier, often happier, and live much longer than outdoors cats allowed the freedom to roam. However, if you absolutely must allow your cat to roam outside it is important to ensure the cat is brought indoors from dusk to dawn. This is when our native fauna is at it's most vulnerable to cats. Many councils in Australia now have regulations in place for roaming cats, so it's important to ensure that you check with your local council for their rules pertaining to outdoor cats.

If you are considering keeping your cat indoors, but would like to explore the possibility of building a cat enclosure, please read our page on cat enclosures here http://www.cat-world.com.au/cat-worldenclosures.htm . You will find many ideas from home built cat enclosures to commercially built ones. Photos, tips & lots more

 

BIRMAN KITTENS BIRMAN BREEDER BIRMAN CATS BIRMAN STUDS BIRMAN LEGEND BIRMAN CAT BREEDER BIRMAN KITTEN BIRMAN LOVE NSW CFA REGISTERED BREEDER OF BEAUTIFUL BIRMAN CATS MISPELT BURMAN

Beautiful Semi Long Hair, Overtly Friendly, Cats of Distinction